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Blanche de Fougerolles Absinthe Review:
-74% abv (148 proof), .7
litre (.2 litre shown)
-Country of Origin: France
-Grape-Alcohol Base
There are several wine-based
absinthes that I wholeheartedly enjoy, but sadly, this is not one of
them. In fact, its base is this absinthe’s biggest downfall. So, just
how far down the hill will BdF tumble?
Hyssop, which I’ve always
believed is most welcome in a wine based-absinthe, is in good measure in
the aroma along with fennel. What is not welcome, however, is the
looming shadow that is the undercurrent of a bad funk. The “body odour”
scent that is found in some (er, most) grape-alcohol based absinthes
just seems especially heinous here. I find myself sniffing constantly,
sometimes not getting too bad of a sensation, other times physically
recoiling at the aroma. If you’re not strictly astute in taking the time
to appreciate the aroma before drinking, there’s a chance you may not
catch it. I’ve heard from more than a few that have missed the stench
entirely. But oh, dear…once you spot it, it’s a road mostly downhill
for the remainder of the glass.
The louche is loose, dusty,
and unimpressively weak. One of the poorest middle-shelf louches I’ve
ever seen. The louche is very, very slow to begin and is just as
reluctant to come to an end. It is lacking in opacity.
Thankfully, the aroma does not
strongly reflect the actual taste, though it remains off-putting
enough. Post-louche, the odour subsides a bit, but the alcohol is still
sharp as a tack. The mouth feel is better than the embarrassingly thin
louche as it rolls nicely with a slight prickle, creamier toward the
finish. It is nearly free of any numbing sensation, somewhat palate
neutralizing and modestly dry. A second glass with sugar improves
things minimally, but a mental picture of being faceplanted into a pro
wrestler’s armpit is already burned into my memory as I sip. Even being
heat-driven it seems to have more of a mild, delicate taste, though not
so flowery. A little sweeter than the average blanche. Whatever your
feelings on it, it takes a bit of getting used to.
Tasting a third glass at a 3:1
dilution, I’m getting a wallop of bland, odoury nothingness with a
sudden finish of fennel and some coriander. Hyssop is certainly present,
but is much duller than the aroma would suggest as the overall flavour
fades as quickly as it came.
I’m a bit torn here because
there were times halfway through a glass when I’d think this stuff
wasn’t half-bad. I was learning to tolerate it, and becoming accustomed
to the funkiness, but even then I could not deny that it’s a bittersweet
tolerance and that there are a lot of absintheurs not as forgiving as I
that will easily dismiss it altogether.
For those that think they may
appreciate the taste of liquid BO, the door to Kurt Angle’s office-and
his underarms-are always open. Unlike BdF, that won’t cost you anything
but a few broken bones, so scribble it down in your pleather-bound
weekly planner as a plausible alternative.
Other Notes: I enjoyed this
absinthe best with 2.5 parts water with no sugar. This also marks the
first time I’ve put more detail into the aroma than the taste. What am
I? The Fee Verte review process?
Presentation: 7.25
Louche: 4.75
Taste: 5.75
Value: 5.75
Overall: 5.25/10
Published 8/12/2008 |
